horse health massage emrt practitioner

owning a horse

Advice on how to purchase and care for your horse

The acquisition of a horse or pony is both a financial and emotional experience for which many new horse owners are often improperly prepared, and it is the intention of this book to give an oversight into financial, welfare and many other aspects of owning a horse or pony.

Many horse owners, particularly those who are inexperienced, sometimes encounter problems that cause anxiety. This book offers guidance and information about some of these problem areas.

Owning a horse is a very big responsibility. It means hard work and often lengthy and unpleasant chores; and it usually also means quite a considerable expense.

It is very important to understand that the initial purchase of your horse or pony is only the first step in a whole new experience. You will have to consider whether the horse or pony is to be kept in a paddock, or whether it will be stabled. Either way you will need to know about feeding and the costs. Paddock horses will need to have some supplementary feed when grass become short or is lacking in minerals. Stabled horses need to be fed continuously on bought feed and mineral supplements.

If your horse is to be keep in a paddock, ideally the paddock should be of one hectare (minimum 0.4 hectare.) The paddock should have some natural shelter, good grass cover and drainage. The paddock should be preferably properly fenced (not with barbed wire.) and with the fence easily visible to horses. (Electric fencing as well, is a good idea.) Paddock should be free of rubbish, especially glass, old wire, star pickets and iron. Kept free of horse dropping in order to aid worm control and discourage flies. Also to be kept free of poisonous plants and weeds.

Horse’s need shelter from wind and rain, and require shade during summer, Natural shelter such as a belt of trees, but you may prefer to provide a stable or shed to supplement or substitute for natural shelter. Stables should be at least 2.75 metres high and should have a floor area of at least 12 square metres (for horses) or 9 square metres (for ponies). They must be constructed and maintained to be secure and to minimise any risk of injury. Good drainage and ventilation are needed, and fire-fighting equipment should be kept close at hand. Clean bedding, such as straw or wood shavings, should line the floor of the stable and must be changed daily.

Remember that old horses need special care and should have a warm waterproof rug in addition to other protection from the elements.

Horses need daily exercise. Tethering is not an acceptable method of keeping horses or ponies. Also, horses and ponies are sociable animals and don’t like to be kept in isolation (kept by themselves) for long periods.

Unless you can afford full accommodation at a riding or equestrian centre (around $140 per week) you must be prepared to visit your horse or pony twice a day, seven days a week. To ensure that your horse or pony has:

  • Fresh clean water available at all times.
  • Hasn't’t had a paddock accident e.g.: been kicked by another horse, is not caught in a fence unable to free himself and or has not been severely injured.
  • Doesn't’t have his rug hanging around his neck or the leg strap cutting into him.
  • Has not been frightened or attacked by dogs, or has gone through the fence onto a busy road where he may be injured or killed, as well as possibly injuring or killing people in a motor vehicle. If your horse collides with one. (You are liable for any damage to a vehicle involved as well as any injuries sustained by any persons in the vehicle.) FENCING MUST BE SECURE AND SAFE FOR YOUR HORSE OR PONY.
  • Has adequate feed. The horse must be supervised if it is hand fed, and feed is not to be left on the ground for your horse to eat.

Remember that any association with horses or ponies will have its highs, but will also have some lows.

Children are also easily injured in falls or handling of horse or pony. All children should be supervised and have correct tuition e.g.: Riding Schools, Pony Club. Where the age of Pony Club finishes for young riders. Riding groups continue.

When choosing your horse or pony, if this is your first horse, have a person with knowledge of horses to go with you to inspect the horse. Make sure the person selling the horse knows for what purpose you wish to use it. E.g.: Pony Club, Dressage. Avoid unbroken or young inexperienced horses. A colt or stallion.

Look for a good temperament. An older horse that a young rider has out grown or has moved on to a horse that will take them to a more completive level. This also applies to an older rider looking for their first horse or pony.(Don’t buy a horse or pony for looks alone, buy for temperament and the work experience it has done, so you can start your horse experience safely).


Don’t rush into buying the first horse you see or is offered. Arrange to ride it a few times and make sure it is free of serious vices such as biting, kicking, rearing, bucking or bolting and is safe in traffic. Have a Vet Check done on the horse or pony before committing yourself.

If you are an inexperienced rider, or are learning to ride. I suggest you wait until your riding instructor informs you, that you are ready for your first horse or pony, and will probably help you in getting the right one for you.

Once you have found the horse or pony for you, Equipment you will need will consist of a head collar, lead rope, bridle, good quality saddle (fitted to your horse), saddle blanket, a gel pad or similar is a good option. Grooming kit, which should include a hoof pick, feed bin and water container, Storage barrels EG: for your feed. As well as a dry safe storage area for your equipment. These are the basic necessities for your horse. Your own riding outfit has to be purchased as well, and must include an approved riding helmet and good quality riding boots.

There will also be fees for trimming or shoeing. Horses to be ridden on roads or rough ground or heavy work should be shod. Shod horses should be done every 6 to 8 weeks for replacements or adjustment of shoes. Unshod horses should have their hooves trimmed every 6 to 8 weeks. This work should be carried out by an experienced farrier. Teeth ages 2-5 years of age should have their teeth examined prior to commencement of work or at monthly intervals. Horses should have their teeth checked at least once a year after reaching the age of five and more often if being hand fed. A horse with bad teeth cannot eat properly and is likely to lose condition (weight) and or be difficult to ride. This work should be carried out by an experienced Equine Dentist.

For regular, preventative measures against diseases such as Tetanus and Strangles, and for worm control. The possibility of unexpected expense due to illness or injury must be considered.

  • Always provide good quality feed.
  • Always have clean, cool water available for your horse or pony.
  • Always clean your horse’s feet before and after riding, to prevent foot injury from stones, sticks or metal objects that have become embedded in its feet.
  • Make sure your saddle is kept clean, the girth is clean and soft, and that the saddle blanket is washed regularly. Along with rugs.
  • Always check your saddle for potential pressure area due to shifting lining, packing, or dried leather girths or saddle flaps.
  • Never work your horse or pony for long periods until you have properly conditioned the animal through slower regular workouts.
  • Remember that horses have good memories- they can learn bad habits as easily as good ones.


Worm Parasites Control:

Heavy worm burdens can cause a horse to lose condition and lack vitality despite adequate and balanced diet. Heavy infection with external; parasites may also affect health and condition, sap vitality and cause a horse or pony to spend time itching and rubbing itself.

Regular control of internal parasites is important to ensure proper digestive efficiency and freedom from worm related conditions. Heavy burdens can lead to recurring colic, poor condition, chronic or acute diarrhoea, poor stamina and coat condition and poor performance in horses and ponies of all ages. The common problem worms are:

  • Bloodworms
  • Redworms
  • Large roundworms
  • Pinworms
  • Tapeworms
  • Bot Larvae (Bot Flies) Bot lay their eggs on the hairs of the neck, legs and shoulders, anywhere that the horse can reach to bite itself. The eggs are then swallowed and grow in the stomach, which can occupy up to two-thirds or more of the stomach area. They are passed out in mature, then hatch into bot flies, and the cycle starts again.

Nose Drench or Paste Worming?

Many owners prefer to have a horse or pony’s stomach drenched when they first purchase the animal. (this is only done by a Veterinary) then have it done one a year.

Pasting with E.g.: Equimax or Equiminth should be done every 6 to 8 weeks in between drenching.

With paste it is always a good idea to do a rotation of the worming program as to avoid a resistance developing. E.g.: Year 1 worm with Equimax or Equiminth Year 2 worm with Strategy-T. Year 3 as for year1.

Giving the correct dose.

Modern worming products are usually safe compounds. It is better to SLIGHTLY overdose than to underdose. Under dosing increases the risk of selecting for resistant strains of worm. If possible horses should be weighed before worming. E.g.: Horses in average condition.

Height (hands) Bodyweight (kg)
10-12 250-300
12-14 300-400
14-16 400-500
16-17 500-550
17-18 550-600

If unsure consult with your Vet.

It is not recommended to work or exercise a horse or pony within a few hours of worming. Worm on a rest day. Avoid worming performance ( Pony Club, dressage, eventing, racehorses etc) horses within 7-10 days of a competition or race.

In paddocks, picking up manure once or twice a week with a wheelbarrow and shovel is highly effective in reducing pasture contamination.

Transport, horses and ponies are prone to injury during transport. If your horse is not used to being transported he should travel only in the company of other horses. In all cases he should wear a head collar with the lead rope tied with a quick release knot to the float. Do make sure before loading your horse, that his floating boots and tail guard are on, and that the float is sound and that your horse can be fastened in securely.

 This article is an excerpt from Nadine's forthcoming book on Horse Health and Alternative Therapies. Please contact Nadine by email or phone if you are interested in obtaining a copy of the completed book once it is published.